Hello.  We have been busy little bees.  Friday we hiked Cinque Terre and yesterday we toured Lake Como.  Both were so beautiful and I know I don't have words to do them justice.  We made it to all five towns in Cinque Terre and were able to hike most of the way.  The trail from Vernazza to Corniglia was closed.  They had terrible storms in October which led to landslides and horrible destruction to the town and the trail.  We saw a house that was literally cut in half.  You could still see clothes hanging in the closet.  The hike was challenging and it was hot, so we didn't mind taking the train for that portion! Delaney and I were discussing how crazy it was that a few months ago she showed me this picture on Pinterest and said she'd love to go there someday.  It was of Manarola and she saw it live and in person on Friday.  I think she understood the magnitude of that fulfilled wish.  Here are some highlights:

That's a lot of stairs behind us!

and more stairs...

This was the Lover's Path between RioMaggiore

Delaney and Maddie cemented us there!

Legend is that lovers write their names on locks and throw the key into the ocean.  

More on Lake Como later!

Love,
Leah

Buongiorno!  We are well into week three (sniff--it's flying by too quickly!)  and settling into a routine here in Milano.  It pretty much goes like this:  Girls sleep until noonish, and I use that time to have a coffee, and go for a run/walk to explore the city.  I come back, they shower, get ready, and we head back out for shopping or an activity.  Then by about 4:00 (that would be 16:00 here!) they are ready for nap time.   During nap/rest time, I sit in a cafe and read while having my afternoon espresso.  I collect them again and we all get ready for dinner and night time fun.  Night time brings out all of the young, fun, and ready-to-party crowd in Navigli--it's crazy how quickly the streets go from vacant to Mardi Gras (minus the beads and nudity).  There are swarms of mosquitoes that rival any I have ever experienced (that is saying a lot since I hail from the Sunshine State--winter home to retirees and summer home to mosquitoes), and almost every bar/restaurant keeps repellent on hand for patrons to use.  Pretty clever.  Most nights we are finishing our gelato just as the party is getting started, but that is okay with us!

Yesterday the girls and I were such touristas!  We took a tour of the city on a double-decker bus.  In all honesty, the girls indulged me this very hot, long, but sooo interesting history lesson of Milan.  I was so sad to see all the buildings that were destroyed during WWII, but I'm proud of the way Milan has rebuilt and become a thriving metropolis...and also the mecca for fashionistas everywhere.  I feel like I am on a pilgrimage.  It is my duty to contribute.  It's my DUTY!!  So I contributed to several stores and might have found a vintage Gucci bag that was orphaned and needed a home (it's my duty).  The girls also soldiered up and have landed some pretty great shoes and clothing items.  I know, we are such givers.

Thanks, Lane and Mads.  You were troopers.

Today, Matt is back from Prague (I'm sure he will fill you in on that later--looks beautiful, and he had his first work experience abroad) and we are headed to the Duomo (cathedral) and taking the stairs to the top.  No, we are not wearing appropriate shoes.  It's Milan.  We will suffer.  Tomorrow taking the train to George's house, I mean Lake Como, and spending the day there.  Will post photos of all.

Finally, I will close with some complaints, epiphanies, and general observations from our trip thus far:

1.  It really sucks sharing a bathroom--one tiny bathroom--for the four of us.

2.  It is ridiculous that we have five bathrooms at home.

3.  I really miss chips and queso.

4.  Train travel, bike travel, and walking are fun, and a great way to see the city.

5.  I miss my car.

6.  Tight living quarters leads to bickering.

7.  Tight living quarters leads to quick make-ups.

8.  My girls are hilarious.  

9.  My girls drive me crazy.

10.  We miss Matt the same way in Europe as we do in the US when he travels for work.

11.  Eating dinner at 10:00 is weird.

12.  Italians think our eating habits are weird.

13.  Cappuccino in the morning is to die for.

14.  Gelato before bed is a necessity.

15.  I am horribly homesick.  

16.  I don't want this trip to end.

Ciao, hugs and kisses.

Leah

Hi, Folks!

Matt just posted, but I wanted to include some cool pics now that we have a good camera.  He really captured the beauty of Urbania:

Here are some mummies from the Chiesa dei Morti (Church of the Dead).  Yes, they are real and it was very creepy.  There was some sort of mold or bacteria in the soil that preserved them and when they were unearthed to be buried outside city limits (for sanitary reasons) they were found almost completely in tact.  Some are from the 1500s.  One was a mother who died during a C-section.

 

Also some of Maddie and her dance crew on her last day, and just some silly shots of our last night in Urbania...until next year!

You are too big to be on Mommy!!

First impressions of Milan...we love the area where our tiny apartment is--It's called Navigli and has some of the few remaining canals in Milan.  It's artsy and laid back...described as "...one of the few places in Milan you will find Italian hipsters and goths."  Pretty funny.  Cafes and restaurants surround us and so far we feel right at home.  From here we will travel to Cinque Terre--probably sometime next week.  Lots to see here in Milan, and of course George is waiting for us in Lake Como!!

Here's the tiny shower--it's like a phone booth:

Some highlights of Navigli.  Matt found a beer joint that gives you beer in a plastic cup and gives you a Euro back when you return it.  He's in heaven.  Photos compliments of Delaney:

Ciao for now.  Matt is off to Prague tomorrow for a couple of days for work.  Don't shed a tear for those of us staying behind...we are staying here to shop!  He'll be back on Wednesday and we will go check out more sights in and around town.  Miss you all!! 

xo

Leah

Perfection in Urbania

Once settled into our house just outside the city center, I finally got an opportunity to catch up with my girls.  What I discovered is that each had already adapted and grown in new ways since I last saw them.  Maddie had won the hearts of the entire dance class regardless of age or nationality.  As per usual, they were charmed by her electric smile and ability to throw herself into a new challenge.  Delaney who has been taking daily art lessons and wearing her hair ‘au naturale’ looks much too old and still uniquely American.  My bride looks stunning as ever and has swooned me with her new grasp on the Italian language.

In the town square, I was introduced to the locals and began to appreciate why the girls are hoping for a repeat visit next year.  Whether it was the whistling barista at Kikki Rikki (local café), the English ballet teacher who gives life lessons to Maddie, and Bruno (restaurant owner and unofficial town mayor)- each of them was gracious and welcoming regardless of our language limitations.  The one commonality regardless of location is the flawless cappuccino and expresso that can be had at every local cafe.

To complete our time in Urbania, our final dinner was an epoch locavore feast that featured every item being grown in the gardens adjacent to the quaint location.  While dining al fresco, we were amazed by the beautiful culinary presentations, the Italian DJ (playing American music), and our fiery and enthusiastic host/server Dodi. After watching her dramatically display of hand movements while talking expressively, I had deduced that she is a distant relative of Leah.  How nice!

Some of the highlights during the degustation...

 

Though we were sad to go- we have many more experiences ahead...


Love Matt

Ciao, Americani.  Happy belated fourth of July.  We celebrated in Bologna with the girls donning red, white, and blue.  We also had a coke and french fries at McDonalds while we were waiting for Matt to arrive.  Seemed like the right thing to do!

Matt made it--although it was not easy travel.  Here is a list of what went wrong:

1.  He forgot his passport in Austin and had to have our superhero friend, Jeff put it on a plane for same day delivery to the Atlanta airport.

2.  He showed up to the Atlanta airport for his flight to Bologna, only to realize his company travel agency had booked it for the day before.

3.  When he finally got his plans situated, he was given the pleasure of sitting on the tarmac for 2 hours due to weather.  It was hot.  There were obnoxious teenage girls.  It wasn't good.

4.  He left his belt accidentally at the security checkpoint in the Rome airport while racing to catch his connection.

5.  When he got to Europe, he realized he had no internet connection and his phone wasn't working, despite being told his phone had an international plan.  So he had no way to communicate with me what was happening.

6.  He tried to use a pay phone to call me and his debit card didn't work (forgot to tell BOA he was traveling abroad??).

7.  So now he is in Bologna with no Euros, no way to access Euros, and no way to get in touch with me.

Alas,  it all worked out.  He found a payphone that took a different credit card,  somehow managed to convince the cab driver in Bologna to accept American dollars, and made it to the rental car to meet us at the designated time.  Oh, that's right.  They also lost one of his bags.  It's supposed to be en route, but we shall see.  Ahh...the joys of travel.

Needless to say we were all thrilled to see Daddy!  He said he wished all of his homecomings were like this.  You mean, they're not?  

He doesn't look any worse for the wear after all his travel woes.

Bologna was beautiful and we wished we had more time to spend there.  Took a great tip from Andy on a dinner spot, Trattoria AnaMaria.  Here are some highlights of that dinner: 

Matt's first meal in Italia was anatra di arrosto (duck).  He's now had pizza, gelato, and more than his share of coffee.  

He jumped right in the fun of pottery:

Delaney has taken to making a sport of eating pizza.  She can take down a whole pizza almost entirely alone.  Here's one of her remnants and one of Maddie enjoying her favorite treat.  We are truly eating our way through Italy.  So glad our whole little clan is here-now feels more complete.

We are wrapping up our stay here in Urbania.  Off to Milan Saturday morning.  More from there!  xoxoxoxox

Leah

Ciao!  Come sono i miei amici Americani?  Hello!  How are my American friends?  A quick post before picking up Maddie for lunch.  I love this schedule, by the way.  I highly recommend that as a society, we adopt the three-four hour lunch to have a big meal and a nap before finishing off the day.  It suits me.  Plus, who doesn't want a three course meal right in the middle of the day?  It's brilliant.

The Wallace girls are all a twitter getting ready for Daddy's arrival tomorrow.  We will take a 7:30 AM bus (sorry, Delaney who has taken to sleeping until noon--just in time for the big lunch!) to Pesaro where we will board a train to Bologna.  No bags this time, thankfully!  I've been cleaning the apartment (because of course he will notice) and I'm sure there will be welcome signs a la Delaney.  It's crazy to think we haven't seen him for 2 1/2 weeks.  That's a long time!  We love our little town, but it will be nice to feel the hustle and bustle of a larger city.

Our ceramics class was great.  The three hours flew by!  We all can't wait to go back today for more. Our teacher, Tina, gave us one super speedy demonstration then put us in aprons, handed us a hunk of clay and said, "ottenga iniziato!"  (get started)  Each of us wore the same expression of, "huh?"  I managed to ruin two pieces; Delaney in true form was methodical and interested in getting it right; and Maddie, who was unusually quiet,  created several successful pieces and seemed to catch on the quickest.   I will say this--it is hard to make pottery.  I  have a whole new appreciation for the Desert Dreams store on 2222!   But it is also very therapeutic and relaxing, and a great way to spend time with the girls.  It would be nice to continue when we get back home.  I'm sure it won't be hard to find some cool artsy pottery hippie to work with us in Austin.

Hopefully I can get the girls back on board with blogging.  It's hard to find time with all the sleeping and dancing.

Arrivederci per ora!

Leah

Buonjourno! Sorry to disappoint, but it's me again.  Delaney is not much for the blogging, it seems.

So we begin another week here in Urbino.  Over the weekend we went with a group on an excursion to the beach.  We were in Pesaro which is on the Adriatic.  We are Florida and Texas girls, and consider ourselves beach veterans, so when one of the group members warned us about the hot sand, we gave her the cursory, "si, si."  Holy hot sand!!  Two steps and we were crying for mama.  Another lesson in listening to the locals.  So we hopped, skipped, and jumped a shaded path to the sea.  The water was clear and shallow and felt amazing.  Even I got in and enjoyed it without fearing certain death from a sea creature.  We spent the day sunning and reading, and floating in the sea.  The girls bought a ball and tossed it around, and we had a delicious lunch of Diavolo (literal translation, "devil" but it is spicy salami) pizza and finished the day off with patatine frittes (french fries) served with mayo and ketchup.  Gross/delicious.

Here are some beach photos:

 

          


Last night we joined a mourning crowd at Bruno's as Italy lost to Spain 4-0.  Heartbreaker.  On a lighter note, Bruno sent over a delicious plate of rabbit.  I am learning also that you do not say no when you are offered a kindness...even if it means eating Bugs Bunny.  It was pretty tasty, I have to say.  Even the girls thought so.   Can't wait for Daddy to get here and partake in the culinary gluttony.  Bologna, here we come!!

We start our ceramics class today.  Pretty excited about that.  It's 3 hours at a time, so we will see how our stamina holds up.

Well, I'm off to pick up la ballerina.

Miss you all.  We LOVE hearing from you!

Leah